How to install chain link gate?
Chain Link Fence Installation Manual
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- Depending on the geographical location, fence height, and fencing materials used, post hole size may vary. In general for residential chain link fences, dig holes 6" in diameter by 30" deep (or below frost line in your area). Another rule of thumb is to dig the holes three times the diameter of the post, i.e. a 2" diameter post would require a 6" diameter hole, and put one third of the height of fence that's above ground - in the ground. Typically gate post holes are dug larger in diameter and deeper to withstand the additional stress of a moving gate. The guide string may be removed temporarily prior to excavating to prevent cutting it. Be sure to replace it as it was originally stretched.
- Restretch guide string and check holes for accuracy visually and/or by placing a post in the hole and plumbing in all directions. If the hole needs 'shaved' or moved, do it now. If holes are shallow because you hit an object you can't remove, 'bell' the hole at the bottom. To 'bell' a hole, use a post hole digger and/ or spud bar to make the bottom of the hole larger than the top. This further anchors the concrete footer which will support your fence. 'Belling' will compensate for holes as shallow as 18" deep. If necessary, move the hole slightly to miss any obstructions. This will change your post spacing. However, there is no harm in the case of line posts. If you must move it more than a couple of feet, consider installing an extra post midway in the enlarged space. Other ways of dealing with obstructions include bending posts below ground and welding plates on to posts to secure to large rocks.
- Mix concrete with water using pre-mixed bag. Go easy on the water. Mix should look like thick gray mud, not like Mom's watered-down chili. If it doesn't pile up on the shovel, it's too thin; add more mix to dry it up. If you are mixing from scratch using aggregate like gravel, limestone or sea shells, concrete sand and Portland cement, mix 3 to 4 parts (shovels) of aggregate to 2 parts sand and 1 part cement.
- Mark post grade mark. End, corner and gate posts should be marked at the height of the fence plus 1 inch; 49" for a 4' fence, 61" for a 5' fence, etc. Mark intermediate or line posts at height of the fence minus 3 inches; 45" for 4' fence, 57" for 5' fence, etc. When you add your line post cap and top rail, the height will be accurate. Grade marks represent the bottom of the fence and are essential in setting posts to the correct depth. If you bury the post hiding the grade mark by 1", you will need to trench to bury the fence here. If your grade mark is above ground by 3", your fence will be off the ground by three inches and you better plan to cut it off later or fill under the fence if a tight fit is necessary.
- Fill holes with wet cement. Do not fill too many and risk having the concrete cure before you can 'stick' your posts. Do not fill holes to the the top with concrete, leave the concrete down 3-4". Filling the hole completely with cement is a common mistake. If this is done, water will collect under this 'lip' of concrete. When it freezes, the ground will literally squeeze the concrete footer and 'heave' the post up, much like squeezing a tube of toothpaste.
- Stick Posts. Most chain link posts can be installed by actually pouring the cement in the hole first and then 'sticking' the post in the wet cement. Simply push the post into the cement mix in the center of the hole. Set terminal posts as tight to the string as possible without touching the string. Set line posts approx. 1/8"-1/4" off string. This will account for the...